Renowned designer and creative influencer Craig Jacobs – whose label Fundudzi by Craig Jacobs proudly celebrates its 20th anniversary this year – returns to Cape Town Fashion Week (CTFW) on Saturday, after a 14 year hiatus.

And the designer is delighted to be part of CTFW: The Edit Spring Summer 24, presented by Africa Fashion International (AFI), which takes place on Friday and Saturday at the Hollywoodbets Kenilworth Racecourse.

Says Jacobs: “For my return to CTFW, this collection is about simplicity, intention and meaning. It’s a reductive exploration of identity – who we are, where we’ve come from and where we’re headed. There’s strength in quiet, thoughtful storytelling, and I hope this collection captures that spirit.”

Fashion was never part of Jacobs’ original plan.

“It happened purely by chance,” he says. “I often joke that I’d attended far too many fashion shows as a journalist and naively thought, ‘I could do this’.

What truly transformed that idea into reality was meeting an incredible designer, Pumla Ngxekana. We shared a mutual passion for creating a label that reflected a modern African sensibility. Together we launched Fundudzi in November 2004. While Pumla eventually pursued other interests, including her own label Soul Spice, I chose to carry on the journey with Fundudzi.

“With my background in media and sociology, I was driven from the start to tell African stories through fabric, while fostering a deeper awareness of what we wear. This ethos is embodied in the name Fundudzi, which refers to a sacred lake of the vhaVenda people. According to legend, one can hear their ancestors drumming beneath its waters at night. Fundudzi serves as a vessel to share these stories, celebrating the rich cultural tapestry of the African continent.”

Jacobs explains how the label has evolved over the past two decades:

“Fundudzi has constantly shifted. My short attention span, coupled with my involvement in media and design, allows me to explore diverse ideas and bring those insights back into the brand. Fundudzi began as a couture label, expanded into independent boutiques, partnered with one of South Africa’s biggest retailers, and transitioned from primarily womenswear to menswear.

“Today, in retail we offer menswear (designed to be worn to anyone who appreciates our thoughtful design, no matter their gender) and a bespoke couture service for occasion wear and formal attire, including tailored suits and evening gowns. However, we do not take on many new clients – I prefer to collaborate with those who align with my vision and ethos rather than operate as a designer on demand service.

“The journey has been exhilarating but not without challenges. I’ve learned to see obstacles as opportunities for growth. At its core Fundudzi has always been about storytelling; encouraging people to view the world differently and inspiring change in themselves and the world around them.”

Sustainability is all important to Jacobs and the label is considered to be one of Africa’s most ethical.

“Environmental awareness has been ingrained in me since childhood, thanks to my mother’s passion for conscious living. Mom makes her own cleaning and beauty products, grows as many of her own vegetables as she can and makes an effort to avoid harmful chemicals. In primary school, with the encouragement of my teachers in Elsies River, I led programmes to clean up the area and plant trees.

“However, I don’t consider myself an extremist or purist when it comes to sustainability. For me, it’s about small, meaningful changes that accumulate over time.

Early in my career, I realised that many South African consumers were more drawn to disposable fast fashion than eco-conscious garments, so I had to adapt, shifting my approach to focus on designing and manufacturing with eco-principles, reducing waste, being environmentally aware, and finding innovative ways to make sustainability an integral part of our process,” he says.

“I also look with a little bit of bemusement how every designer these days seems to be sustainable. I hope it isn’t just a fad, but something they genuinely believe in. I have tried to move a little bit back about claiming I am a sustainable designer even though I have been working on this for two decades.

What is more necessary is to encourage people to buy less and buy more thoughtfully. I would be quite content to create a collection solely made out of polyester if I knew it wouldn’t end up on a rubbish dump, seeping chemicals into the soil. So, in terms of this collection, I took a zero waste approach to design, incorporating hemp, bamboo and African produced cotton.”

His predictions for next year’s hottest fashion trends?

A question which, as a journo I always ask, but as a designer is a pet hate. Ha! The main thing to be aware of is that fashion is a barometer and reactor to what is going on in the world – the tectonic plates are shifting and hopefully we will be moving away from fashion designed for memes to something quieter and more thoughtful.”

Jacobs’ creations will be shown at Cape Town Fashion Week: The Edit Spring Summer 24: South African Designer Show II on Saturday at 5pm along with Gavin Rajah and Craig Port.

Tickets are available for each of the shows, while there is also an all-day pass available for Saturday.